Checking our watches, it was just under 40 minutes and we were still unable to see the island. Just as if we were in a movie, the boat emerged from the ocean haze, unveiling the grandeur of Catalina Island's mountainous terrain, blue skies and cotton puff clouds. What a sight! Walking down the pier at Two Harbors, the town gives the illusion of being a small fishing village in the South Seas. Giant palm trees sway in the breeze and old anchors and a ship's propeller in the harbor's courtyard welcome travelers back to land. This small relaxing village hosts a restaurant for dinner, grill for breakfast, lunch and snacks, cocktail and bar area with the grill and bar also offering outdoor seating with a lovely view of the harbor. The restaurant menu has a wide variety to choose from and includes plenty of fresh seafood. We found the food and service to be excellent. There is also a general store in case you've forgotten something or if you wish to purchase food to cook over one of the many BBQ's on the beach.
For the outdoors person there is camping in tent cabins, teepee tents, or bring your own tent. (Available April to October)
For the moderate outdoors person there are cabins that sleep two with your choice of a double bed or bunk beds. The cabins are equipped with a small refrigerator, heater and closet. Restrooms and shower facilities are located close by. There is an outdoor community kitchen located in the center of this compound which would be the social gathering point on group trips. (Available October to May)
For the more pampered person and our first choice is the Banning House Bed & Breakfast. The lodge was built in 1910 as a summer guest house by the Banning Brothers who owned the island prior to the Wrigley family. Located on a hill, the lodge offers spectacular views of the Isthmus Cove, Catalina Harbor and the surrounding mountains. Each room has a special view and is decorated with its own charm. It seemed each room was in competition to be chosen for our stay. What a decisions to make! The lodge offers a trellised courtyard, various porches and fireplaces in both the dining room and lodge room.
Diving
The quality of boats that are provided by West End Divers proves that they are serious about diving. Our dive boat was a 45 foot platform catamaran powered by twin diesel engines, that quickly carried us to dive locations. The boat is totally equipped for comfort: sunshades, wind protectors and a head with a shower. We will have to say this was the most comfortable, well equipped and spacious dive boat we have ever been on.
For day trips to other channel islands or the backside of Catalina, a 38 foot boat designed specially to quickly carry divers safely through the open ocean is used.
On the dock we met the Captain and Dive Master, Paul Wintler. "So, what kind of diving are you interested in? Wall, reef or kelp forest?" Paul asked. What a concept, the divers get to choose! We decided on all of the above. As we prepared our equipment, Paul told us that he is always looking for new and interesting dive locations, particularly where party boats are unable to go. All the dive locations we dove allowed the boat to anchor close to the shore in approximately 15 feet of water, enabling safety stops to be done close to the boat. Paul definitely knows the best locations. The diving was great! Visibility was 50 feet plus. The water temperature was approximately 65 degrees which wasn't bad with a 6mm suit, hood and gloves. By the time we were geared up we wanted to jump in and cool off. If you haven't ever dove the kelp forest it is a definite must. The feeling you receive swimming through the giant kelp is a trip in itself. The sea life is also very different from anywhere else. The big friendly orange Garibaldi, the small green speckled Juvenile Garibaldi, Octopus, Banded Guitar fish and the docile Horn Shark were all our favorites. Shore diving is also available in the coves and offers plenty of sea life to see. All of our dives were especially enjoyable because there were no surges, waves or currents to contend with. If it helps to ease your mind, there is a decompression chamber within minutes of Two Harbors.
Other Activities
We have to confess, during our four days on Catalina Island, we, dedicated divers, only made three dives. There are just to many other fun activities to do! Hiking, kayaking, biking, beach volleyball, horseshoes and watching beautiful sunsets sink into the ocean occupied some of our time. Hiking is very popular at Two Harbors offering various choices, ocean views, inner island, day or overnight trips. We didn't have to hike far to be alone with a special view. Our favorite activity was ocean kayaking. The boats are comfortable and easy to handle. We easily paddled along the protected shoreline to one of many secluded coves and decided it would be a lot of fun to bring a picnic next time.
Talking to the staff at Two Harbors is also an enjoyable past-time. They are all friendly and helpful and told us proudly of the Island's history. The union army was stationed on Catalina Island during the Civil War. The army's barracks are now used as yacht club housing. Hollywood left its mark, giving Two Harbors its South Sea look during the filming of Mutiny On The Bounty, Wake Of The Red Witch, Rain and Old Ironside. Many of the houses were originally built by Hollywood as movie sets and were then later enclosed for housing. During military occupation of the island in World War Two the Banning House served as Officer's quarters.
Inner Island Tour
On our last day we decided to take the Inner Island Tour offered out of Two Harbors. Our driver and guide was Steve Wittington, the Island's Naturalist. Steve also guides kayak expeditions and nature walks.
After climbing to a higher elevation, we drove through a gate in the fence that is used to keep the buffalo from wandering into Two Harbors. It wasn't long before we came upon a herd laying in the warm sunshine. What an extraordinary sight. The buffaloes are also a product of Hollywood, brought over for the movie The Vanishing American. There are many scenic views of the mountainous terrain, and high views of the ocean and the coves below. The views of the inner island are magnificent and we certainly recommend this tour. Little Harbor Campground and the Airport In The Sky Museum are usual stops on this tour. Our tour ended in Avalon where we lunched and shopped till we dropped before boarding the boat for the quick trip back to the mainland.
How To Get There
Call Two Harbors! They offer a great standard all-inclusive package or they will tailor a package to fit an individual or groups particular needs, including amusement parks on the mainland if desired.
If you are planning a trip soon, give Two Harbors a try while it is still relatively unknown outside of California. In the winter the diving is said to be the best. Business also slows down a little in the winter giving you or your group the opportunity of having the island somewhat to yourselves with the best possible service.